Mossberg 930 SPX, lets get critical.

At the gunshop I work at, we got in more of the Mossberg 930 SPX tactical shotguns.  Even though they have had a huge surge in popularity, they are the same price as they were before.  About 600 bucks.  They have improved the SPX slightly.  For one, they gave the SPX a larger bolt handle, which is a large improvement.  They they screwed in a Sling Swivel Stud so you can put on a sling.  Thanks, that’s a nice touch… but it’s not enough.   I have some complaints about the SPX that I’d like to see Mossberg take a good hard look.

I sell these things for a living, that’s what I do.  And a lot of the serious shooters out there just can’t take Mossberg’s semi auto seriously, and will buy a gun that’s 400 bucks more money.  Why is that and what can be done to fix it?

1.  The forward handguard feels loose.  It doesn’t feel solid and secure.  This gives the whole gun a cheeper, lesser quality feeling.  I know the gun is good, but when the handguard is shifting around, it’s hard to convince someone that’s it’s okay.  A tactical shotgun should be as solid as a Louisville Slugger.   Mossberg just hasn’t got this yet.

2.  This new aftermarket sling swivel stud looks like someone just screwed it on before they took a lunch break.  That just screams chinsey.  A simple bracket like what Wilson Combat sells would work perfectly, look cool, and would be easier and better to use for those who use shotguns for serious purposes… like… who you’re selling the SPX to.

3.  It doesn’t come with a mount for a pistol light.  The addition of a simple bracket around the mag-tube and barrel that puts a short rail up front would go a long way.  Instead you (Mossberg) are forcing your customers to go buy that part from someone else.  You make that part and you sell that part.

4.  No chokes.  What makes a Shotgun so great is it’s versatility.  With removable chokes, an operator can tune his gun and load in together for whatever situation.  This is one of the main reasons I sell tactical shotguns that are 400 bucks more.   Serious shooters want to be able to use the right shell for the job, and if they don’t have the ability to change out a choke tube, then that’s a handicap.  A big one.

If Mossberg does these few things… the 930 SPX can be transformed from a “Great gun for The Money” into a World Class gun for Serious Shooters.

 

7 thoughts on “Mossberg 930 SPX, lets get critical.”

  1. Ogre,

    So there you have it. You have just defined a market opportunity for Crusader. The o our things at could be offered as part of one or two “upgrade” packages for that weapon. Add in a slipstream treatment, and the options to Duracoat or Cerakote.

    Maybe you should pitch that one to Mossberg. Let them run their normal marketing for 95% of the 930 SPX production, turn 5% over to Crusader. 80% of that is “upgraded” to a Mossberg defined specification and returned to Mossberg for their marketing and sales teams to run with. The balance can be offered as either custom limited runs for Crusader (say one run annually). Maybe market that as The Ogre Limited. Or, you could offer it up like the Wraith, etc. as a standard set of enhancements.

    Just a thought.

  2. Ogre,

    As usual, you are right on the mark. I have, and really enjoy, my 930SPX. My TOTALLY AWESOME & TOTALLY BADASS WIFE, gave it to me for Christmas 2 years ago. I was attracted to the shotgun after I saw a friend’s 930SPX and was struck by how “handy” it felt. Lightweight and easy to get on target fast, I thought this would be a great platform to play with. Well, like you, my enthusiasm was tempered by the fact that I really did have to buy several accessories to get it where I wanted (sling adapter for the magazine, light adapter, shotshell carrier, etc.). No big deal; like an AR the 930SPX could be “barbie for boys”.

    The other two aspects that were a bit of a disappointment were the finish, and the magazine dumping shells onto the feed tray 2 at a time. The finish issue? Well, it is a $590 gun so you can’t expect too much. Due to semi-regular range and IDPA use it will soon become a candidate for a “trunk gun”. Eventually, someone like ROBAR might get to re-finish it. The second issue is that feed “issue”. I’ve read the owner’s manual, and maybe I’m dim, but I can’t figure it out. I’ve just conditioned myself to put one in pipe first and then load the magazine.

    I love the rail on top of the receiver and the ghost ring sites! The gun has been VERY reliable! I wouldn’t hesitate to reach for it when something goes “bump” at zero-dark-thirty, but, yes, Mossberg could have made this the poor man’s Benelli!!! Oh well, it’s a “work in progress” and I’ll enjoy my tactical barbie doll.

    Oh, and you are right on the money about the chokes! Chokes on a “fighting” shotgun really help stretch it’s legs.

    Keep up the good work.

    W

    1. Whiskey1,

      Have you resolved the issue with “magazine dumping shells onto the feed tray 2 at a time”?
      If so, how did you fix it.

      Thanks

      1. If you are having a problem with that… Send the gun back to Mossberg and let them tune it up. It’s their gun… Let them fix it. Mossberg stands behind their stuff.

  3. I got a 930 for near nothing ($100 worth of computer parts) because the original owner claimed it had to many problems.
    I had found a few problems and means to repair them. The 930 CAN be finicky even though used in a 40 degree angle I have never had a problem. I tore the weapon down completely after reloading several hundred different rounds & at about 125 I found the shotgun SO dirty it was unusual. I did notice that the fittings on certain areas of the gun were VERY close (a few 1000th of an inch-type); cleaned the gun and left it totally dry. I did this to see where I was getting rub-contact points at first but then I noticed that although at 40-45 degrees it still functioned flawlessly, I finally DID get some FTE when held in a totally horizontal position. I field stripped the gun and found some VERY interesting issues.
    There is a cup tube that the bolt return spring sits in. This MUST be lubed! Polymer and steel get hot when rubbing and this results in the spring cup binding when the gun is shot horizontally. It was much to close for an auto. Lube in this area (OUTSIDE of the steel spring cup; so it slides with NO friction. Graphite typically or CLP if the tube is binding). This is mandatory. The trigger system is more complex than need be and sear/hammer unit will ride the bolt extension cut. This can be cleaned up with a micro buffer on a Dremmel or Teflon or graphite if you don’t want to touch that mechanism. The SG has no rubber ring like a Remington on the mag-piston. Instead it has an actual piston ring set. These get REALLY dirty REALLY fast. It should NOT stop the weapon from funtioning but will not do it’s job of self adjustment [to differing pressures] if not cleaned w/ Hopps at about a milliliter of CLP put over the rings (no need for more). This is not a gun for those who don’t clean them! Run a pipe cleaner through the dual gas ports and IF you have carbon there either your powder is high-sediment type or there was some lube left inside. Those must be completely dry. After this short clean up the gun ran in any position and perfectly for at least another several hundred rounds. Neglect these issues and the gun may have problems.
    The guns made on or prior to 2011 were UK, York finalized and are unusually tight. I found that barrel fit to receiver was incredibly sticky; but the functional issue is that Bolt-Spring cup. That MUST be clean and lubed. In dusty desert areas or if not inspected (especially after “racing” the gun) this can shut the gun down from perfect functionality to a problem weapon. IF when the weapon is taken apart that Spring Cup sticks in any manner it is mandatory that it needs to be lubed (best with graphite) until there is NO stickiness what-so-ever in this area as that return spring is so pivotal to all functionality on the gun that even SLOWING it will give problems. This WON’T happen when the gun is pointed at an angle skyward as the Spring-Cup is set to that angle and the WEIGHT of the bolt due to gravity will eject, load, etc.
    I am writing all this NOT to hype the gun.
    I am writing this so people with problems can fix them. I have been shooting this gun specifically to FIND the problems as I DO believe that most all auto can have issues (Glocks can be “limp-wristed”, etc).
    IF you are having problems please examine what has been noted thus far: I bet these suggestions will work. So far this SG has had over 1000 rds and I finally found some issues. Just as a background, I have been working with this stuff for a few decades & actually believe that some folks DO have trouble with the 930. I am following this to help those who do have troubles that COULD be prevented / repaired for little to no money.
    You likely WON’T have problems as many have been “ironed out” and if any should arise, “cut & paste” the posts, read them over and EXPECT imperfections with MOST autos till about 200 rds. (just like a .22 – Now a few (like a Ruger 10/22) we don’t see a “break in” period. But understand that we have a much more complex concept here.
    1.) we are moving more weight, bulk from a tube-fed mag and an “elevator system” unlike a blow-back “shave-the magazine system”
    2.) We are using a gas / piston operating system that has certain demands (cleanliness and oil; like a motor).
    3.) we don’t have “replaceable seals” like an 1100 or 11-87 Remington) – we have piston “rings” just like a car.

    Some people believe that the mag feed stop (in the receiver) is a poor design. However we have a LOT of different ammo; some with very weak aluminum bases. So if that were “built up” that part we could get a jam that could actually be a danger. If two feed at the same time simply put SG on “SAFE” avoid the primer and feed back the one near the tube-magazine. Remembering that it MAY simply not like that ammo (just like a .22 has “favorites”). Make note of that ammo.
    4.) Remember you have a “return bolt spring” & it’s just my opinion that IT has been the cause of MANY annoyances.

    Some folks don’t understand that the trigger housing is sloppy & has play while OTHER parts are VERY tight. There IS a design reason for this:, heat, dirt, water, debris, & the ability to strip the unit (always cocked and on SAFE); if it were TOO tight we would eventually wear down the receiver, every time we pulled the trigger-housing out and water would not drain easily. An AR has “slop” for similar reasons.
    There is a very expensive Italian shotgun that uses similar design features & folks become astounded at the reasoning. [The two] in our case, gas feed holes have a slight “trumpet” to them. This make a weak shell deliver enough gas to cycle the mechanism IF the unit is clean yet makes for a lower speed similar to a Browning Auto5 and the bolt return spring cup has an easy time moving back and forth. The springs used are chromium-silicon steel. They won’t wear easily (similar to Wolf’s springs). After cleaning you may also want to leave the unit cocked and bolt open so most springs are compressed. (WHY?) Because that can “seat” problem tight spring holes or engagements. I would leave it like that for no more than 4-5 days; but it can help if your bolt-spring cup is very tight and sticks. I once had a “Street-Sweeper” in the place I worked & fixed it with a tear-down, extreme cleaning, and leaving it cocked. To clean a trigger/hammer assembly that looks like a real pain just submerge it in diesel fuel for a 1/2 hour, remove and let it evaporate. It will SLIGHTLY oil the contacts and any debris will most likely be left behind. If an object is still there, it will easily be seen.
    My strongest advice with the 930 is to tear it down and study it while you clean it and lube it with a dry lube except the “piston-rings” and the outside of the bolt-spring “cup”. Don’t use more than a milliliter. (With CLP, that’s a VERY small amount) When you do so – STUDY the weapon; watch uTube videos if you want a bit of “technique-help” (getting the bolt-extension into the cup, just like a Ruger MKI, MKII, , MKIII .22. the unit is held upside-down. And you CAN put the bolt back BEFORE the trigger/hammer unit (it all comes out from two pins, even the gate. Remember the tiny pin that holds the bolt extension CAN fall right out! Do ANY work in an area where you can find tiny springs, pins, etc!

    Best wishes

  4. i have the 930 spx the only problem i had after 30 rnds the magazine spring jammed inside the ext tube had to replace spring with a nordic spring solved problem.

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